The Sustainability of Leather Fashion Over Fast Fashion Trends
August 31, 2023
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The incredible history of leather and its story is a captivating saga of human ingenuity and adaptability. From its humble beginnings in the Stone Age to its status as a coveted material in today’s modern world, leather has been used and has played an integral role in our evolution as a species.
Imagine early humans under the scorching sun, stretching animal skins and smoking hides to preserve them. Can you smell the raw hides and feel the texture of the emerging leather? It was in the Stone Age that their experimentation and ingenuity led to the accidental discovery of tanned leather.
It was their experimentation and ingenuity that led to the accidental discovery of tanned leather. This likely occurred through raw hides left in water with tannin-containing plant materials, an early form of what we now know as vegetable tanning. Vegetable tanning involves using tannins found in vegetation, such as tree bark, to cure the hides. This process is time-consuming and labor-intensive, but it results in durable and flexible leather that’s ideal for heavy-duty uses like saddlery and footwear.
This marked a significant milestone in the history of leather and leather manufacturing, leading to the creation of crude vegetable-tanned leathers. Over time, this leather produced evolved and found its leather for various uses in armor, harnesses, and carpets, and the knowledge of tanned leather spread across regions, each culture perfecting its techniques.
Today, leather also remains a cherished and sought-after material, symbolizing durability and versatility, and it is part of human history, connecting us to our ancestral past, often seen in the form of luxury leather goods.
So, the next time you run your fingers across the supple leather or don your favorite leather jacket, take a moment to contemplate the remarkable journey this material has embarked upon throughout history.
The origins of leather-making and leather use trace back to the Stone Age, a testament to the resourcefulness and adaptability of early humans. Archaeological evidence from Hoxne, England, suggests, based on limited artifacts discovered, that humans as far back as 400,000 years ago were already harnessing the protective qualities of animal hides, indicating they made extensive use of leather.
Stone scraping tools known as “Lissoirs” were likely used in the early stages of leather craft, refining, and smoothing hides, preparing them for tanning and use. These early tanned hides were crucial for survival, offering protection from harsh weather conditions and serving as materials for clothing, shelter, and tools.
Now, let’s take a step back in time, way back, to the cradle of civilization itself. Picture the ancient settlements of Mehrgarh, nestled in what we now know as Pakistan. As early as 7000 BC, these resourceful folks were already harnessing the power of leather, a testament to human ingenuity. Even the Sumerians, around 3000 BC, were in on the secret. It’s a fascinating thought, isn’t it?
The same material we use today, gracing the feet of our distant ancestors.
These early societies recognized the value of this versatile material and worked together to maximize its benefits. The process of leather craft, specifically making leather, was likely a communal effort, given the significant labor and resources required to prepare the hides. This early use of leather, refined with tools like Lissoirs, laid the foundation for the leather craftsmanship we know today.
While it’s impossible to be 100% certain, scientists theorize that bone awls dating back to 82,000 BC found in South Africa were tools used to create holes in leather hides in the Stone Age, marking a significant point in the history of leather. The leather would then have been used to fashion clothing and construct shelters, combining hides and furs for maximum protection.
The discovery in Siberia of the first sewing needles with an eye dating back to 33,000 BC represents a significant shift in the craft of leather making.
The transition from using awls to making holes for sewing with threaded needles increased the range of items that could be crafted for daily use, marking a significant advancement in the art of leather craft.
As the history of leather-making continued to evolve around the world, more discoveries were made. Evidence of leather tanning dating back to 5000 BC was discovered in what is now modern-day Iraq. In Armenia, a pair of leather shoes dating back to 3,500 BC was unearthed in the National Geographic article on the oldest leather shoe. This shoe, crafted from a single piece of leather, is a tangible link to our past, a testament to the enduring utility of leather.
Just 400 years later, in Egypt, leather dating back to 3,100 BC was identified as part of a chariot harness. The use of leather in such diverse applications, from footwear to transportation, demonstrates the versatility and durability of this material.
These early uses of leather were not just practical; they were revolutionary, marking a significant chapter in the history of leather craft.
They marked a shift in how humans interacted with their environment, using the resources at their disposal to improve their quality of life. This revolution was not just about survival; it was about progress, innovation, and the dawn of civilization as we know it.
The evolution of leather tools and techniques played a significant role in the development of early societies and marked a crucial chapter in the history of leather. The use of bone awls and sewing needles transformed the way leather was used, allowing for the creation of more complex items.
These tools, combined with the development of leather tanning and the evolution of leather craft, revolutionized the use of hides in various items, from shoes to chariot harnesses, demonstrating the versatility and durability of this material.
Early leather tanning methods involved a cocktail of smoke, grease, animal brains, and bark extracts, a primitive form of what would later evolve into the process of vegetable-tanned leather. Vegetable tanning, also known as ‘bark tanning’, uses tannins from tree bark to create a firm, flexible leather that’s ideal for belts, shoes, and saddles. It was a family secret, passed down from father to son. These early techniques were labor-intensive and required a deep understanding of the materials and processes involved. Stone scraping tools known as ‘Lissoirs’ were likely used to refine and smooth hides, preparing them for tanning and use.
In between these periods, alum tanning also emerged as a popular method. Alum tanning, also known as ‘white tanning,’ uses a mixture of aluminum salts and other ingredients like egg yolk or flour to create a soft, white leather that’s ideal for gloves and bookbinding.
By the 19th century, we’d moved on to chromium tanning, a quicker and more efficient process, around the same time patent leather was developed. Chromium tanning uses chromium salts, specifically chromium(III) sulfate, to cure the hides. This process is faster than vegetable tanning and results in a softer, more pliable leather that’s suitable for a wider range of applications, including clothing and upholstery.
This shift marked a significant advancement in leather-making, allowing for the production of softer leather that was more durable and could be used in a wider range of applications.
It’s a fascinating journey, from the smoke-filled huts of our ancestors to the high-tech tanneries of today. The evolution of leather tools and techniques is a testament to human ingenuity and the relentless pursuit of progress.
The Bronze Age, extending from 3000 to 1300 BC, was an era characterized by the widespread use of bronze for tools and weapons. It also marked a significant period in the extensive history of leather. However, another craft that held significant value during this period was leather craftsmanship. Leather was employed for a multitude of purposes, from creating clothing and shoes to crafting weapons and upholstery leathers for furniture.
A testament to this is the discovery of a leather shoe from approximately 3600-3000 BC, made from a single piece of leather and designed with holes for lacing.
During the Bronze Age, the art of leather craft flourished, with leather extensively used for clothing, footwear, and military equipment. Leather became the material of choice for creating head coverings, shoes, general wear, belts, hats, pants, jerkins, capes, overcoats, bags, cloaks, satchels, book bindings, straps, and ties.
In the military domain, leather was used for crafting attachments and harnesses for armor, body protection, saddlery, shields, quivers, and pouches.
The Bronze Age was abundant with tools for leather crafting. These included hunting tools like bows and arrows, bone combs for hair removal, and bone awls for piercing hides, a common technique for sewing leather hides and furs together.
A fascinating discovery in the Alps unveiled a Bronze Age hunter still wearing his shoes made from bear and deer skins! In China, leather armor was custom-fitted for each warrior.
This period also marked the advent of leather tooling, a craft that would later become an integral part of the history of leather.
In the annals of ancient India, the art of leather craft was a widespread practice, adding another chapter to the history of leather. Various tanning methods were employed to create items essential for daily tasks, such as bottles, bands, straps, and laces.
Notably, priests and monks were often seen donning sandals crafted from leather, a testament to the material’s practicality. However, leather’s significance extended beyond its practicality – Leather became a symbol of wealth and status, accessible only to those of higher social standing. Leather items, often used in rituals and ceremonies, further emphasized the cultural significance of this material in ancient Indian society.
The craft of leatherworking in ancient Egypt, dating back to 2700 BC, was a testament to the material’s versatility and resilience. Vegetable-tanned leather, known for its toughness and durability, was used to create shoes, while softer aluminum-tanned leather was used for garments. The use of vegetable-tanned leather in this era highlights its long-standing role in the history of leather.
Sandals, boots, and other types of footwear were also crafted from leather, but only the affluent could afford these luxurious leather accessories. The ancient Egyptians also prominently used leather for crafting manuscripts and scrolls, showcasing leather’s versatility.
The evidence of leather craftsmanship in ancient China dates back to 1600 BC. Leather was used to create a range of items, from clothing and shoes to other goods. Hides from cows, rhinoceroses, and buffalo were used to craft leather armor, providing protection on the battlefield not just for warriors but also for horses, with the creation of shields and helmets.
In addition to its practical uses, leather was also used for decorative purposes. It was shaped or stamped with intricate designs for use on satchels, bags, and accessories, demonstrating its versatility and the aesthetic appeal it added to everyday items.
Horse saddles, believed to have originated in Central Asia around the middle of the first millennium BC, were also made from leather.
A recent archaeological discovery unearthed a leather saddle dated 724 and 396 B.C.E from a woman’s grave at a Yanghai cemetery in northwestern China’s Turpan. This find situates the Yanghai saddle at the inception of the history of leather saddle-making.
As the Iron Age dawned, leather found its place in the creation of clothing and accessories. Iron Age footwear, including shoes and sandals with laces, along with belts, capes, and jewelry, were all crafted from this versatile material.
Iron Age shoes, evidence of the ingenuity of Iron Age leather craftsmen, were made from a single piece of leather with holes for laces that curved around the ankle and were laced up at the back.
In ancient Greece, leather was a luxurious material used to craft footwear as soft as silk, including the iconic ancient Greek sandals and shields strong enough to withstand the toughest of battles. Leather was also used to create leather bags designed to carry herbs and spices.
Leather was an essential element in ancient Greece because it was used to hold so many things together. From the battlefield to the marketplace, the influence of leather in ancient Greek society was undeniable.
The Romans made leather by soaking cowhides in a saltwater solution, followed by rubbing oil onto its surface to soften it. Supple and resilient, the end result was leather that was ideal for producing shoes, boots, belts, and accessories, including Ancient Roman leather bags.
However, the Romans are most well-known for the creation of an extensive array of leather footwear, from light sandals for indoor wear to heavy boots to wear in combat.
The basic types of footwear worn by the Romans, including the unique ancient Roman leather shoe, remained the same until the fall of the Roman Empire in 476 CE.
The shoes worn indicated the power and status of the shoe-wearer. For example, the senators in ancient Rome wore unique sandals wearing leather shoes called “calceus senatorius” with four black thongs, while emperors wore regal calceus called a “mulleus” that was laced with red thongs. Slaves went barefoot.
This use of leather in footwear showcased not only its practicality but also its role as a status symbol in ancient Roman society.
The Dark Ages, a period marked by major transformations in the history of leather crafting and craftsmanship, began after the fall of the Roman Empire. The Political and economic instability during this time made leather goods scarce and expensive.
However, artisans and craftsmen revived the art of leather making, creating functional items such as saddles, shoes, clothing, and armor, as well as decorative and ornamental pieces such as book covers, furniture, and jewelry. This period saw a resurgence in leather production, with some advancements in techniques occurring in the following centuries.
This period saw a resurgence in leather production that remained largely unchanged until the Industrial Revolution centuries later, proving leather’s versatility and durability over time.
The history of leather in fashion took a significant turn during this era, with the material being used for a wide range of items, from medieval leather craft tools to leather artifacts. The origin of leather and its use in the Dark Ages is a testament to the resilience of this material and its enduring appeal.
Leather was a lifeline for the Vikings, a material that could withstand their harsh environment and provide protection from the elements. They used it to make clothing and accessories such as bags, boots, and battle armor.
Leather was also used to craft a wide variety of items that provided warmth because of its ability to retain heat during cold weather. These include tents, sleeping bags, coats, cloaks, and blankets filled with wool or fur.
But why did the Vikings choose leather over other fabrics?
Because its durability and waterproof properties make it ideal for creating items that could last through every season. In addition, it lent a fashionable edge to everyday items such as hats and belts. Leather was invaluable to the Vikings, providing warmth, protection in battle, and fashion-forward style all at once!
The Vikings were known for their leather crafts, creating items such as leather belts and armor. They had a unique process for tanning hides, contributing to their leather goods’ durability. Their leather jackets and boots were not only functional but also stylish, demonstrating the Vikings’ appreciation for aesthetics alongside practicality.
Viking leather pouches were a common sight, used for carrying everything from coins to small tools. Even the footwear, from simple shoes to sturdy leather Viking boots, was designed to withstand the harsh Nordic climate.
And it wasn’t just about functionality – the Vikings also dyed their leather into different colors, adding a touch of fashionability to their attire.
In the Viking Age, leather was more than just a material. It was a testament to their resilience, their ingenuity, and their ability to adapt to their environment. From the battlefield to the home, leather was an integral part of Viking life.
The Middle Ages, spanning from 1000 CE to 1300 CE, saw a major leap forward in the leather-making industry. From clothing and shoes to furniture and accessories, leather was used for all sorts of items. Specialized tools were employed to make leather working tools, craft bags, satchels, boots, hats, belts, and more, including the iconic “Cracow” long-toed shoe with its elongated tip. Leather was also used to safeguard horses and their equipment. However, the vegetable tanning process used for making this type of leather was both time-consuming and costly.
Thanks to new technologies discovered during this period, the production of luxury items and the exploration of different types of hides and materials became easier. The Middle Ages marked an important milestone in the history of leather working, when skills were perfected, processes improved, and goods diversified, making it one of the most respected industries at that time.
The Renaissance period, a time of cultural rebirth and burgeoning affluence, saw leather ascend from its utilitarian roots to become a symbol of luxury and style. This era witnessed an explosion of creativity among artisans, who crafted a plethora of leather goods, ranging from clothing and footwear to shields and decorative items.
Despite the growing popularity of silk, satin, and velvet among the wealthy, real leather remained a staple for everyday wear.
Leather shoes, in particular, were a common sight, with designs varying from multi-piece constructions to simple wraps secured with laces. Leather belts, chairs, and other accessories also gained prominence during this period.
The Renaissance was also a time of innovation in leather production. Techniques honed in Italy and the surrounding Mediterranean countries led to the creation of durable leather goods that could withstand the test of time. These methods involved the use of vegetable tanning, a process that, while laborious and costly, resulted in high-quality leather.
Leather’s popularity during the Renaissance was not merely due to its practicality. It was also a fashion statement, with leather goods often featuring intricate designs and embellishments.
This period saw the rise of “cordwainer” craftsmen, who specialized in fine leatherwork, particularly in the creation of luxury footwear. Their work was highly sought after, further elevating the status of leather in society.
The Renaissance played a pivotal role in establishing leather as a versatile material suitable for a variety of uses.
The advancements in tanning and finishing techniques developed during this time laid the groundwork for modern leather manufacturing, demonstrating the enduring appeal and versatility of this remarkable material.
The Enlightenment period was a time of significant advancements in leather crafting. The development of more efficient and cost-effective techniques led to the production of soft, pliable leather, which was ideal for crafting book covers, stylish shoes, aprons, hats, and bags.
Leather’s status as a symbol of wealth and prestige was further cemented during this era. Aristocrats frequently sported belts and gloves made from leather, and leather furniture became a common sight in the homes of the Roman patricians, with lounge chairs being particularly popular.
The advancements in tanning techniques during the Enlightenment period had a profound impact on leather production. These improvements made quality materials more accessible and affordable, leading to an increase in the production of both clothing and furniture made from leather.
These items became symbols of wealth for those who could afford them, and many of these techniques are still in use today.
The Enlightenment period also saw the rise of the leather bookbinding industry, with leather-bound books becoming a common sight in the homes of the wealthy. This period also saw the introduction of new types of leather goods, such as leather-bound journals and diaries, which were popular among the literati of the time.
In addition to its use in clothing and furniture, leather was also used in the production of a variety of other items during the Enlightenment period. These included saddles, harnesses, and other equestrian equipment, as well as a variety of tools and equipment used in various trades and professions.
The Enlightenment period was a time of great innovation and progress in leather production, and its impact can still be seen in the leather products we use today. From the stylish leather shoes we wear to the comfortable leather furniture we relax on, the influence of the Enlightenment period on the leather trade is undeniable.
The Industrial Revolution brought rapid advancement in chemistry and technology, which resulted in increased efficiency in the leather crafting industry. Machines such as the fly shuttle, spinning jenny, and power loom were used to speed up the production of leather.
The mid-19th century also saw the introduction of powered equipment that performed such operations as splitting for split leather, fleshing, and dehairing.
This period also resulted in the need for resources and raw materials to run machines, including new kinds of leather, such as belting leather, to drive machinery. And finally, thanks to the invention of the automobile, there was a new demand for leather that was soft, pliable, and available in an array of different colors. Traditional vegetable-tanned leather was too thick and inflexible to be used. This led to the invention and development of chromium-tanned leather at the tail end of the Industrial Era.
The Industrial Revolution revolutionized leather production – transforming it into something more flexible than ever before. Have you ever wondered how our ancestors managed without these modern processes?
The Industrial Revolution changed everything!
Have you ever wondered how the advent of chrome-tanned leather in the 19th century revolutionized the leather industry?
It provided a quicker process and properties that made the leather softer and more flexible, transforming the face of the leather manufacturing industry. During the Victorian Age, the advent of the chrome tanning process of leather led to a proliferation of luxurious leather goods and furniture. Darker shades like black and brown were favored for furniture, while lighter hues like tan and cream were popular for clothing and accessories. Exotic animal hides, available for sale at affordable prices, became a symbol of status and wealth.
1858 Friedrich Knapp from Germany and Hylten Cavalin from Sweden invented chrome tanning. But it was the American chemist Augustus Schultz who patented the chrome tanning process with alkaline chromium (III) sulfate as the tanning agent, revolutionizing the leather production process.
The Victorian era saw the use of specialized tools for cutting, stitching, and dyeing leather, as well as the application of different types of finishes.
The introduction of plastics and rubbers allowed for the production of more affordable leather goods. From Victorian leather working kits to patterns, the era was marked by a wide range of leather working tools that enabled people to express their style through their leather furniture and accessories, showing off their taste with every piece they owned.
From Victorian leather boots and jackets to distressed leather fabric and soft leather hides, the period was marked by a wide range of leather goods. The era also saw the rise of Victorian leather furniture, with leather chairs and living room furniture becoming symbols of wealth among those who could afford it. Many of these techniques are still used by most leather production today!
The 20th century was a time of great transformation for the art of leather making. The two world wars resulted in the introduction of new materials, such as plastics and rubbers, that completely changed how leather goods were made. This period marked a shift from traditional craftsmanship to industrial production on a large scale.
In the 1960s, leather furniture became all the rage, so much so that having a leather couch in one’s home was de rigueur in order to keep up with their neighbors. Families would often gather together on their leather furniture to listen to music or watch TV.
The Progressive Era set the stage for the modern-day leather trade by producing materials, tools, and trends that are still used today, making it possible for us to continue to enjoy luxurious couches to this day.
Leather has been a staple of everyday life since the early 2000s, akin to a familiar companion that’s always been there. The demand for leather goods steadily increased as more customers sought its unique blend of durability and style. However, to make leather more affordable while ramping up production, tanning leather and finishing shifted to developing countries due to lower labor costs and material expenses.
In the quest to meet the burgeoning demand, the industry witnessed a significant shift towards synthetic alternatives. Various types of synthetic leathers, from plastic to plant-based materials, began to proliferate. These synthetic leather alternatives, often referred to as “faux leather” or “vegan leather”, are crafted from a variety of materials, including PVC, polyurethane, and innovative new materials derived from pineapple leaves, cork, apple peels, other fruit waste, and recycled plastic, to name a few.
Despite the rise of synthetic leather alternatives, natural leather remains a sought-after material due to its unique characteristics and durability. It continues to be used in a wide range of products, from furniture and clothing to car interiors and high-end accessories. The leather industry has also made strides in becoming more sustainable and environmentally friendly, with innovations in tanning leather and the use of less water and harmful chemicals in the tanning process.
Today, the story of leather continues to unfold. As we move forward, the industry is sure to continue evolving, driven by consumer demand, technological advancements, and an increased focus on sustainability. Whether it’s a luxurious leather sofa, a stylish handbag, or a durable pair of shoes, leather remains an integral part of our lives, carrying with it a rich history that spans thousands of years.
From the time when it was first crafted with primitive tools by ancient man in the Stone Age to the present day, when it is available in a virtually unlimited array of colors, patterns, textures, and sheens, leather remains a coveted material prized for its durability and versatility.
From its early use as a practical protection and status symbol in ancient India and Egypt to its representation of individual style and taste during the Victorian Age, leather has been an integral part of mankind’s evolution.
The continual improvement of tanning leather and finishing processes has allowed for the development of many types of leather that can be used to make goods for every type of need and lifestyle. By presenting the fascinating history of leather crafting, we hope it is clear why leather remains a timeless material that continues to be an integral part of everyday life for people from all walks of life around the world.
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